Speed + Runtime Upgrade (about $55 shipped)
$50 - Losi 300mah 2S 15C LiPo battery with wall charger (http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=11102).
Description: Note that this will only fit the DT chassis. It won’t fit the shorter Micro T bodies and this explains the main reason you should get a DT chassis. Yes, you can run a LiPo battery in these micros with the stock electronics. You just need to make sure it is a '2S' battery and not the '3S'.
Without a doubt, this is probably THE best upgrade for the Micro T (without going to a brushless setup). The speed of your Micro T will be dramatically different. Don’t underestimate how awesome this upgrade is. Yes, it costs more than half the price of the Micro T kit. However, the ‘wow factor’ will give you a very nice grin. Additionally, you will be able to drive your Micro T for longer amounts of time without having to charge it again. This, again, is another reason that this upgrade is so awesome. To this day, after having invested well over a couple hundred dollars into the Micro (not including the original price), this is still my favorite upgrade. Make sure you get the 300mah 2S LiPo. Losi offers 2 other LiPos; a smaller mah LiPo which has less power and a 3S LiPo made for the brushless guys.
Losi batteries are plug and play, guaranteed to work, and don't explode. However, other people have had good success using the the Aero-nuts batteries. They are fairly cheap and a good buy (http://www.aero-nuts.com/). The problem with the Aero-nuts batteries is that they don't have the appropriate connector and they can explode. You should never discharge them fully. Personally, I would never use one. However, I wouldn't be doing justice to this post unless I mentioned them (http://www.aero-nuts.com/product_info.php?cPath=32_56&products_id=592)
Discussion of Losi vs. Aero-nuts:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Suspension + Reliability Upgrade (about $35 shipped)
$32 - Atomic Grease Shocks (http://www.atomicmods.com/Products/Atomic-TL006S-Micro-T-Aluminum-Friction-Shock-Set-Silver__13267.aspx)
$7 - Driven Productions SUPER wide front bumper (http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=11795)
or...
$5 - RPM Wide Front Bumper (http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=9489)
Description: Without a doubt, the best thing to do to your Micro T in terms of the suspension is a good set of shocks. This is the second best modification to date that I have done for my Micro T. The difference is night and day. The best thing to do is to convert over to a grease or oil shock. The jury is still out with regard to which is better. Some swear by the grease shocks. Some swear by the oil shocks. If this were a bigger vehicle then the oil shocks would probably win hands down. However, there are problems when attempting to mass produce an oil shock of this tiny size. There seems to be less problems with the grease shocks. This is why I went with the Atomic grease shocks. They work beautifully. Just make sure you don’t pack them too much with grease. The destructions aren’t that great. You simply need to remove the shaft, put a liberal coat of the grease on the shaft, and then reassemble. Long gone are the days when you are bottoming out the rear of your Micro T. I tried various springs in order to combat this rear bottoming out (and the ‘tubing trick’). The only thing that solved it to my satisfaction was the upgraded shocks. This is a very valuable upgrade. The front bumper is a necessity. Get it sooner rather than later. The Driven Productions front bumper is the best front bumper that I have used. I have tried the various aluminum bumpers out there. However, this bumper is actually the widest one that I have found. The RPM bumper is the next best - but the driven productions one is much wider and provides more protection.
Atomic Grease vs. Atomic Oil Filled discussion:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Someone who had a good experience with the 3Racing oil shocks:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Another great option for a bumper is the TGN carbon fiber bumper. This thing is WIDE. There are some great success stories with this bumper:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Another way to stop your Micro from bottoming out:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Speed + Stability + Ease of Maintenance Upgrade (Total around $35 shipped)
$11 - 3Racing Rear CV threaded shafts (http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=9178)
$7 - Threaded front shafts (http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=9545)
$8 - Raminator Tires (http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=9799)
$5 - Wrench for the shaft nuts (http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=8898)
Description: One of the items that all Micro T owners recommend is to go with threaded axles. Threaded axles allow you to more easily remove your wheels and tires so that you don’t have to mess around with the little C-clips. In all honesty, I think it is pretty easy to get the C-clips on and off. However, with the Raminator tires, that’s not the case anymore – and trust me, you WANT the Raminator tires. With regard to the threaded axles, you could always just buy a full set of threaded axles. However, you’ll probably just want the CV axles later anyhow so you might as well just spend the extra couple dollars now and get them (and is just a couple extra dollars!). This will create a more fluid rear axle setup with less friction. Additionally, you’ll have less grease points and it makes working on the rearend a bit easier. After much research, I chose the 3Racing CVs because they appear to be the ones that fit the best (with many of the others being too short). With regard to the tire upgrade, the Raminator tires are larger and wider. This does 3 main things –all of them good (depending on your standpoint). First, it gets your chassis off the ground a little bit. Although performance cars often operate better with their chassis pinned to the ground, I don’t drive my Micro T on pristine roads. It sees a wide variety of conditions – as most Micro Ts do. A little extra ground clearance is a plus. Second, since the tires are a greater circumference/diameter, your Micro T is now automatically faster. Woo! Third, the width of the tires gives your Micro T more stability. You won’t flip the vehicle as much as before. I have a set of the 3Racing wide rims/tires and I still love the Raminators.
Link to discussion on rear CVs:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Great post that shows the difference between the Raminator tires and stock DT tires:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Speed + Steering Precision + Reliability Upgrade (Total around $40 shipped)
$7 - Bearings (http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=9523)
$15 - Aluminum Front Steering Knuckle (http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=8887)
$15 - Aluminum Rear Hubs (http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=8886)
Description: Bearings are a nice addition. You do not need to buy the 10-bearing kit. You only need the 8 bearing kit. The larger 2 bearings in the 10 bearing kit are for the transmission – and your stock transmission already has those bearings installed - and aluminum transmission cases already come with the bearings. With the bearings installed correctly, you’ll be able to spin your wheel and watch it spin for longer than it did before. Note that the rear bearings go in the rear suspension hubs. The front bearings actually go in the wheels. In this upgrade we also see my first recommendation of aluminum parts. Why use aluminum for these parts? The front part definitely needs it for improved steering response. The front plastic knuckles are a little too ‘flexy’. Additionally, if you decide to upgrade to the custom Du-Bro steering linkage (described later), you’ll definitely want aluminum knuckles to support the Du-Bro ball. With regard to the rear hubs, they aren’t 100% necessary. I like using the rear aluminum hubs because the rear hubs are what actually house the bearings. The rear aluminum hubs keep this area tight and the bearing fully captured over time.
Super Awesome article on tightening steering in a Micro T:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Suspension + Steering Upgrade ($ variable depending on path chosen)
This upgrade needs some discussion before posting parts. Long story short, almost every Micro T owner will have to replace the steering linkage. This is because the stock clear plastic flexible links that connect the steering block to the front knuckles will crack over time. Once these crack, you have to make a choice about what to do. You basically have 3 main choices (and combinations of these choices):
1) Stay stock-ish
2) Go with available adjustable turnbuckles
3) Make your own adjustable turnbuckles
To understand how this all works, you need to understand the parts on the vehicle –and this is very important. Long story short: The servo causes the steering block to move left or right via your input from the controller. Attached to the steering block on each end is a clear plastic steering linkage – one for the left and one for the right. These connect to the front knuckles. This is what causes the wheels to turn left or right. The front knuckles are held in place by c-hubs (the part connected to the a-arm, aka suspension arm). These c-hubs have a connection point for the camber linkage. The camber linkage is the long, flat, black plastic item that gets connected from the c-hub to the Micro’s body (front bulkhead). The length of the camber links are what determine your wheel’s camber; the tilt of the top of the wheel towards or away from the body of the vehicle. Micro T guys often refer to all of these parts - the 2 steering links and the 2 camber links - as ‘turnbuckles’ (even though they have different purposes).
So, what happens when you break one of the clear plastic steering linkages? Most people immediately buy the 3Racing adjustable turnbuckles (http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=9113). For $11 they are a great buy (if they would never break). These replace the connection point of all the links mentioned above with a ball and socket joint (instead of a bolt through a hole). The result is a very nice setup that is fully adjustable and doesn’t have bind points like the stock setup. Additionally, you won’t break anymore of those clear plastic links because the parts don’t flex; rather, the ball and socket joint just moves as needed. Another nicety of the 3Racing links is that the center rod has different directions of threads on each side of the rod. So, to move your wheel out or in, you simply turn the adjuster in one direction while the link is still installed on the car. In any case, fast forward to installing these wonderful links on a fast Micro T. It is only a matter of time before you crash - and then you might break one of these new links. That $11 turns into $22 and then $33. The little steel threaded parts are very thin and brittle. They work flawlessly on machines where the driver never wrecks their car. But, to be honest, I actually enjoy driving super fast, wrecking, and seeing my Micro T do about 15 flips (lol). So, what do you do? Well, one option is to keep the clear, flexible steering links. They are cheap and readily available. Many individuals on the boards swear by using a section of a Zip-Tie. This works because it is flexible and very strong. Keeping stock-ish steering links allows you to then upgrade your camber links using one of the many aluminum ones that are available – in various lengths to give you the camber that you need. This is cheap, reliable, and strong.
Last, but not least, you can fabricate your own turnbuckles. This is the place where I have ended up. I wanted the non-binding setup of a ball and cup link while still having durability. The only option is to fabricate your own. You won’t have the nice on-vehicle adjustability as the 3Racing turnbuckles due to not have the reverse threads, but they will be much stronger. There are different methods of making your own turnbuckles. Almost all of them use the Du-Bro micro ball links. They are available under 2 different part numbers: DUB928 and DUB929. You can buy either one. The difference in the part number is due to a small gold linkage arm that you won’t use (one has a 0.047” hole and the other is a 0.032” hole). Here are links to the Du-Bro links:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] The next thing that you will need is a tap in order to tap your aluminum front knuckle to accept the Du-Bro ball. The thread on the stud of the ball is 0-80. You need a 0-80 tap. Here is a link to a tap:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Last, but definitely not least, is that you need the threaded rod to hook two of the ball cups together. This is where people differ. To make it easy, use some 0-80 threaded rod. You can buy this in stainless from Amazon:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Here is tyhodge07’s post on creating adjustable turnbuckles. I don’t agree with the huge threaded rod because it makes assembly a lot more difficult than it has to be – and you really don’t need a rod that thick.
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] With regard to the rear camber links, they are readily available and function flawlessly. They are not located in an area where you will break them so there is no need to think about fabricating your own. You only want to buy these if you choose to stick with a stock-ish front suspension or if you decide to fabricate your own turnbuckles. This is because if you decide on an available turnbuckle set that you can buy (like the 3Racing), they come with the rear camber linkage. Here are the Atomic rear turnbuckles:
$6 - Rear Camber Linkage (http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=8460)
Note: Although I like Atomic parts, do not buy the Atomic Carbon Fiber steering links or the Atomic toe-in linkages. They just don't allow the suspension to really do it's job. Additionally, they too will break eventually. Link to more information:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Reliability Upgrade (about $45 shipped)
$16 - Aluminum Transmission Case (http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=10341)
$7 - Tamiya Shims (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/139954/n/Tamiya-3mm-Clutch-Shim-Set)
$17 - Motor mount Guard/Heatsink (http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=9689)
$5 - Extra differential gear set (http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=9269)
Description: With the increased power, and the increase in transmission stress coming with the next upgrade, you’ll need a stronger transmission case and be able to dissipate the heat of the motor a little bit better and to handle the gear meshing more reliably. The 2 best transmission cases (which are identical except for an inscription) appear to be the 3Racing case and the case made by The Toyz. I chose to run The Toyz case.
In order to set the transmission up properly, you will need shims in order to shim the differential. There is some serious misinformation about the shims (even by me in the past!). People are recommending the RC18 shims but do not use these. Buy the Tamiya shims. The Tamiya shims have not only the proper inner diameter but also the proper outer diameter. With regard to using the shims, basically you need to move the plastic side gears that go into the transmission bearings closer to the tiny brass gears in the center. If you don’t get these side gears close enough, then there is too much play and you will strip the side gear. I’ve stripped a side gear many times. The first time I stripped it with a stock transmission: too much power + too much stress. The second time I stripped the side gear due to not checking my transmission play after first setting up the new aluminum case. The rest of the times that I stripped it was because I was using the crappy RC18 shims. With The Toyz case and a new differential set, I use one 0.2mm Tamiya shim on each side.
I have added a spare differential gear set to this upgrade because nobody usually sets up the tranny correctly the first time. The motor guard / heatsink is not something that is necessary by any means. However, I have found that running this item has decreased the times I receive thermal shutdown. Additionally, this item as made by ‘Atomic’ is a true quality piece. I like that fact that it replaces 2 items on the Micro with one high quality item that offers more protection (both thermally and physically). Note that the shims linked above are a lot more than what you need. You only need the smaller shims, and probably only 2 at the most. You might be able to find just the smaller shims somewhere else for cheaper. I just wanted to order everything from one place.
When you hear a grindy/whiny noise when powering forward or reverse but the car just doesn’t have the power that it did before, then you probably stripped one of the side gears in the tranny. Post on what a stripped diff might sound like:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Disassembling, Cleaning, and Assembling your Tranny:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Review of 3Racing vs. TheToyz gearbox:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Picture of where the shim goes:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Power + Speed Upgrade (About $25 shipped)
$15 - Atomic BB motor II (http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=10809)
Free - Larger pinion (the larger pinion came in your DT kit for free).
$7 - Integy 49T Spur gear (http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=8819)
Description: The ‘wow factor’ in increased further here in terms of speed/power. This is a very nice upgrade for $25. This is the second version of Atomic's upgraded motor and this one has dual ball bearings (one at each end of the motor shaft). At this point you will be as fast - and sometimes faster - than a brushless setup. Of course, not everyone wants flat-out speed. Some want torque and tire spinning power. If you want tire spinning wheely power, simply don’t buy the Integy Spur gear and don’t swap to the larger pinion. Instead, consider swapping to the smaller pinion (free in the kit) and buying a spur gear with more teeth (larger).
Breaking in your new motor:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Reliability + Suspension Configuration Upgrade (About $25 shipped)
$10 - Aluminum Front Arm Mount / Pivot Block (http://www.atomicmods.com/Products/Atomic-TL007S-Micro-T-Aluminum-Front-Pivot-Block-Silver__13271.aspx)
$9 - Aluminum Rear Arm Mount / Pivot Block (http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=8627)
$10 Aluminum Front DT shock tower (http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=11462)
Description: With regard to the pivot blocks, I can’t do better justice to this upgrade than ‘Micro-T Master’. There are spelling issues galore in his post, but here it is
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] With regard to the shock tower, it all depends on how much you crash and flip. I do it a lot. As such, I have cracked the little hole where the pin clip goes in the front shock tower. Then I cracked it again (lol). Given that the new plastic part is $4, it made sense for me to upgrade this part to aluminum (and there isn’t much to be gained by flexing this part or breaking it before other parts). This moves the weak point to the front bulkhead and that is AOK in my book.
Miscellaneous Stuff that you might need
$4 - Losi Replacement Screw set (http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=8681)
$2 - Losi black body clips (http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=8652)
$4 - Losi Arms, Towers, Knuckles and hubs (http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=9048)
$4 - Losi DT Front Shock tower and skid plate (http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=9487)
